Fitting jersey top
==================

.. figure:: top.jpg
   :align: center

This is a simple, figure-hugging top with a round neck and a choice of
long or short sleeves, designed for knit fabric.

Beside being a good, if somewhat boring, wardrobe staple, this pattern
is also suitable for sports- and technical-wear: try it in lightweight
merino jersey as a thermal 1st layer, or in wicking jersey for something
like a cycling shirt.

In these cases, you may also want to make a pair of matching
:doc:`../../trousers/leggings_shorts/index`, and if you have fabric
leftovers you can add a matching
:doc:`../../underwear/camisole/index`.

Materials
---------

Fabric
^^^^^^

* About 1.5 m of fabric with a high stretch for a long sleeved top, 1 m
  for short sleeves.

Notions
^^^^^^^

* ~20 cm cotton tape, 1 – 1.5 cm wide;
* matching sewing thread.

Pattern
-------

Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^

This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.

You need to take the following measurements:

``bust_circ`` (G.04)
   circumference around the bust.
``waist_circ`` (G.07)
   circumference of the waist.
``hip_circ`` (G.09)
   circumference of the hips.
``across_back_b`` (I.08)
   width of the back from armscye to armscye.
``neck_circ`` (G.02)
   circumference at the base of the neck.
``arm_wrist_circ`` (L.15)
   circumference of the wrist.
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H.19)
   length from the nape of the neck to the waist, on the back.
``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21)
   depth of the armscye.
``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L.01)
   from the tip of the shoulder to the bent elbow to the wrist.
``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
   distance from the waist to the hip, measured on the side.

the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.

Pattern
^^^^^^^

Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`fitting_jersey_top.val`.

In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following
increments that need to be set; the defaults are reasonable:

``finished_length``
   measured from the nape of the neck, on the back;
``short_sleeve_length``
   desired length of the short sleeve;
``sewing_allowance``
   enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.

Instructions
------------

Cutting
^^^^^^^

Cut the front and back on the fold; to cut the sleeves it may be
convenient to trace the pattern on the fold of a piece of paper and use
that to cut two sleeves flat.

Also cut a strip about 4 cm wide and as long as the neck opening plus 2
cm on the cross-grain or the direction where the fabric has more give.

.. figure:: 0101-cutting_tape.jpg
   :align: center

Use the pattern for the front to cut the right length of tape for the
shoulders.

Sewing
^^^^^^

.. note::
   All seams except for the shoulders are sewn with a french seam, using
   a narrow zig-zag stitch or another elastic stitch, if available on
   the machine used.

   For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm
   allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one
   side.


.. figure:: 0201-shoulders.jpg
   :align: center

Sew the shoulder seams: right sides together, put the front over the
back and add the tape so that it's mostly over the allowances but will
get just caught by the seam. Sew with a *straight* stitch.

.. figure:: 0202-shoulder_flat.jpg
   :align: center

Press the allowances and the tape towards the back, trim the allowances
so that they are shorter than the tape, and topstitch with a straight
stitch at 8 mm from the first seam, enclosing the raw edges under the
tape.

.. figure:: 0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg
   :align: center

Put the band over the neck opening, right sides together and starting in
the center back with the raw edge folded back once, sew with a narrow
zig-zag, pulling the fabric a bit to preserve the elasticity in the seam.

Check that the head can still pass through the neckline; if it doesn't
redo the seam pulling the fabric a bit more (or enlarge the neckline a
bit).

Press the band and allowances up, fold the band to cover all raw edges
and sew it down by hand with a herringbone stitch.

Check again that the head passes through.

.. note:: alternatively, you can fold the allowance down once towards
   ther inside and stitch in the ditch by machine from the right side,
   remembering to use an elastic stitch.

.. tip::
   Finishing the neck at this stage will keep it stable, avoiding the
   need for stay stitching it; after the first seam you can however
   postpone the hand stitching until the end.

.. figure:: 0205-sleeves.jpg
   :align: center

Sew the sleeves to the back and front with a french seam, aligning the
center of the sleeve with the shoulder seams.
Press the seam towards the body.

.. figure:: 0206-side_seam.jpg
   :align: center

Sew the side and sleeve seams with a french seam. Press the seam towards
the back.

.. figure:: 0207-hems.jpg
   :align: center

Fold the hem of the shirt up towards the inside 2 cm, then again, and
topstitch from the front with an elastic stitch such as a 3-step zig zag
or a twin needle.

Do the same to the hem of the sleeves.

Variants
--------

Simpler hems and neckline
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

If making this as 1st layer, you can make even simpler hems and neckline
finish by cutting them with just 1 cm allowance, folding it towards the
wrong side and top stitching with a 3-step zig-zag.

Gallery
-------