Leggings / Shorts
=================

.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg
   :align: center

These are simple leggings with an elastic waist.

Materials
---------

Fabric
^^^^^^

* About 2 m of fabric with a high stretch for full-length leggins, about
  1 m for shorts.

Notions
^^^^^^^

* 2 cm wide elastic, enough to go around the waist;
* matching sewing thread.

Pattern
-------

Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^

This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.

You need to take the following measurements:

``rise_length_side`` (N08)
   vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level.
``height_waist_back`` (A23)
   height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back,
   going over the buttocks;
``hip_circ`` (G09)
   circumference of the hips.
``leg_ankle_high_circ`` (M08)
   ankle circumference where the indentation at the back of the ankle is
   the deepest.

the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.

Pattern
^^^^^^^

Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`leggings.val`.

In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following
increments that need to be set:

``front_curve_distance``
   2.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 2.5 cm otherwise;
``back_curve_distance``
   3.75 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4 cm otherwise;
``back_raise``
   how much the back should be higher than the front; 3 cm for people
   who are less curvy, 5 cm is good for moderately curvy people;
``sewing_allowance``
   enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.

If you want to make shorts rather than full leggins, measure from the
waist down the side the desired length, copy that measurement on the
pattern on the grain indicator line, add 2 cm for the hem and fold back
the pattern perpendicularly to the grain line.

Instructions
------------

Cutting
^^^^^^^

Cut the two legs on folded fabric.

Sewing
^^^^^^

.. note::
   All seams are sewn with a french seam, using a narrow zig-zag
   stitch.

   For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm
   allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one
   side.

   Alternatively, they can be sewn with a flat felled seam on the
   *right* side of the garment, again with a narrow zig-zag stitch:
   wrong sides facing sew with a 2 cm allowance, trim one of the
   allowances down to 8 mm, fold the other allowance over it to cover
   all raw edges and topstitch 2 mm from the folded edge.

.. figure:: 01-inseam.jpg
   :align: center

Fold the legs and sew the inseam.

.. figure:: 03-crotch_seam.jpg
   :align: center

Turn one leg inside out; place them one inside the other and sew the
crotch seam.

.. figure:: 05-hem.jpg
   :align: center

Fold the legs towards the inside by 2 cm, sew from the right side with a
triple zig-zag or another decorative *elastic* stitch.

.. figure:: 07-pinned_elastic.jpg
   :align: center

Cut enough elastic to go confortably while a little taut around the
waist, find the half and quarter points and pin them to the
corresponding points on the waist, folding down the edge to cover it.

.. figure:: 09-sewn_elastic.jpg
   :align: center

Sew from the right side with the same stitch used for the hem, while
keeping the elastic taut.

Gallery
-------