Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting. ========================================================== This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`. All measurements have been converted to metric. Measurements ------------ The blocks have been converted to metric measures. All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a corset, following the instructions given by the book. The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in these blocks and the patterns derived from them. Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of :cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`.. .. figure:: measurements.png :align: center +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | Blair's | Valentina | +======================+=====+==============================================+ | 1 Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 5 Length of Back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 6 Back Balance | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 7 Under Arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 8 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 9 Width of Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 11 Arm's Eye | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 12 Shoulder to Hand | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 14 Outside Arm's… | | ``outside_arm_to_elbow`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 15 Inside Arm's… | | ``inside_arm_to_elbow`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 16 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | 17 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | Dart No. 1 | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | Drawers Length | M14 | ``leg_waist_side_to_knee`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ Blocks ------