Leggings / Shorts

These are simple leggings with an elastic waist.

Materials

Fabric

  • About 2 m of fabric with a high stretch for full-length leggins, about 1 m for shorts.

Notions

  • 2 cm wide elastic, enough to go around the waist;

  • matching sewing thread.

Pattern

Measurements

This pattern uses the Aldrich Drafting System.

You need to take the following measurements:

rise_length_side (N08)

vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level.

height_waist_back (A23)

height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back, going over the buttocks;

hip_circ (G09)

circumference of the hips.

leg_ankle_high_circ (M08)

ankle circumference where the indentation at the back of the ankle is the deepest.

the file ../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit is used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.

Pattern

Get the valentina file for the pattern, leggings.val.

In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following increments that need to be set:

front_curve_distance

2.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 2.5 cm otherwise;

back_curve_distance

3.75 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4 cm otherwise;

back_raise

how much the back should be higher than the front; 3 cm for people who are less curvy, 5 cm is good for moderately curvy people;

sewing_allowance

enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.

If you want to make shorts rather than full leggins, measure from the waist down the side the desired length, copy that measurement on the pattern on the grain indicator line, add 2 cm for the hem and fold back the pattern perpendicularly to the grain line.

Instructions

Cutting

Cut the two legs on folded fabric.

Sewing

Note

All seams are sewn with a french seam, using a narrow zig-zag stitch.

For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one side.

Alternatively, they can be sewn with a flat felled seam on the right side of the garment, again with a narrow zig-zag stitch: wrong sides facing sew with a 2 cm allowance, trim one of the allowances down to 8 mm, fold the other allowance over it to cover all raw edges and topstitch 2 mm from the folded edge.

../../../_images/01-inseam.jpg

Fold the legs and sew the inseam.

../../../_images/03-crotch_seam.jpg

Turn one leg inside out; place them one inside the other and sew the crotch seam.

../../../_images/05-hem.jpg

Fold the legs towards the inside by 2 cm, sew from the right side with a triple zig-zag or another decorative elastic stitch.

../../../_images/07-pinned_elastic.jpg

Cut enough elastic to go confortably while a little taut around the waist, find the half and quarter points and pin them to the corresponding points on the waist, folding down the edge to cover it.

../../../_images/09-sewn_elastic.jpg

Sew from the right side with the same stitch used for the hem, while keeping the elastic taut.